This guide is a home-care support tool. It does not replace personalized advice from your veterinarian. For any questions, contact us at 514-223-1197.
Why a medicated bath?
Many skin diseases and infections improve, sometimes resolve, with medicated baths. They are used as prescribed, and often work better alongside an oral treatment or a cream on the skin. The bath itself is simple and very doable at home.
Skin to treat
An infection or skin disease your veterinarian confirmed after an exam.
Alongside other care
Often more effective with a tablet or a cream at the same time.
The contact time
The whole effect comes from leaving the shampoo on for a few minutes; the watch is your ally.
A medicated bath often goes alongside a cream or ointment: apply it to clean, dry skin after the bath, unless told otherwise. And if your pet is on a spot-on parasite treatment, frequent bathing can reduce its effectiveness: ask us the right interval to leave between the two. See the creams and ointments guide
What you need
Nothing complicated: mostly lukewarm water, a way to keep time, and the prescribed shampoo.
Bathtub and sprayer
Ideally a handheld shower head. In warm weather, outdoors in a well-drained area. Otherwise, a bowl or small bucket to pour water.
Lubricating eye ointment
Sterile and non-medicated, to protect the eyes from the shampoo. We can provide it, or find it at a pharmacy.
A watch or timer
To respect the contact time, which is essential.
Medicated shampoo
The one your veterinarian prescribed. Shake the bottle well before each use. Some (for example benzoyl peroxide) can bleach the coat and fabrics: use dedicated towels.
A rack for the tub
For cats, so they can grip the bottom.
Two people is safer
For a large dog or a pet that dislikes baths, plan for two people: one to lift or steady it safely, the other to wash. Put a non-slip mat (or a towel) in the bottom of the tub too: the dog slips less, feels more secure, and struggles less.
Before you start
A medicated shampoo only suits certain specific conditions: use it only if your veterinarian recommended it after examining the skin. The signs that should make you call are gathered below, under "When to call."
Tell us about other conditions
If your pet has a heart, respiratory, or eye problem, let us know: a poorly tolerated bath can worsen them, and bathing may then be inadvisable.
Is your pet frightened or resisting? Pause.
Stop or pause at the first signs of fear, without waiting for hard struggling: your pet freezes, trembles, pins its ears back, keeps trying to escape, hisses, or growls. Forcing a frightened animal teaches it to dread the bath, makes the next care and vet visits harder, and raises the risk of a bite. Reassure it, let it settle, then resume gently. If the bath stays impossible, stop and call us, and never put yourself at risk. A frightened pet can bite or scratch, even one that is usually gentle: if you are bitten or deeply scratched, wash the wound with soap and water; for a cat bite, or a wound that swells or reddens, call Info-Santé 811 or your pharmacist. Strong reluctance can also hide another skin problem that deserves a prompt check.
Is the bath too hard? Do not give up on the treatment.
Many pets dislike baths, and that is normal: finding it hard does not make you a bad guardian. There are several options: a bath at the clinic by our team, a groomer who uses your prescribed shampoo (following the prescription), or a different formulation, such as a rinse-free mousse, if it suits your pet. Call us: we will find a solution together.
The bath, step by step
Two things make all the difference: the contact time and a long rinse. The rest is simple. For a thick, crusted coat the whole bath can take around half an hour: keep the room warm and the water lukewarm from start to finish.
Protect the eyes
Gently pull down the lower eyelid and lay a thin strip of sterile lubricating (bland, non-medicated) eye ointment in the fold, about ¼ to ½ inch, or 0.5 to 1 cm, then let your pet blink to spread it. This keeps the shampoo from irritating the eyes, since pets do not keep them closed.
Settle in and wet the coat
Place your pet in the tub and soak the coat with lukewarm water, pleasant to the touch. If the skin is red or inflamed, water that is too hot or too cold can be very painful.
Wet from head to tail
Start at the top of the head, then work down the spine to the base of the tail: gravity helps the water reach the skin. One hand directs the stream (or pours the water), the other works the water through the coat. For a fine coat, under a minute is enough; for a thick coat with dandruff, secretions, or debris, allow up to 10 to 15 minutes to soften and loosen the buildup.
Shampoo and contact time
Lather the shampoo over the whole body. Most medicated shampoos need to sit for 10 minutes (or the prescribed time). Time it: this contact time is what makes the bath work. To make these minutes easier, speak in a calm voice, keep your pet warm in the tub, and reward it at the very end, once rinsed. If it panics, take a short pause: the lather stays on and the contact time keeps counting.
Rinse meticulously
Rinse thoroughly until no soap remains. A good rinse lasts at least as long as the shampoo, often 10 minutes or more: soap residue irritates the skin too.
Towel dry
Dry with a towel only, never a hair dryer after a medicated bath (we explain why in the FAQ). Afterward, keep your pet warm and out of drafts in a heated room until fully dry. Cats, small dogs, and senior pets chill quickly: watch for shivering.
If something goes wrong
If your pet swallows lather: rinse its mouth with clean water and do not make it vomit (the shampoo foams and can get into the airways), then call us with the product name on hand. If shampoo gets into an eye: rinse gently for several minutes with lukewarm water or saline; if the eye stays red, watery, or shut, call us.
A tip for cats
Place a rack at the bottom of the tub so the cat can grip it. Tilted at 45 degrees, it keeps the cat from sliding on the stainless steel and noticeably eases its anxiety.

After the bath
Once the bath is done, keep an eye on the skin over the next few days.
- A passing redness: the skin can look redder right after the bath, because circulation increases. This is often normal and fades within a few hours.
- Compare each day: at the same time, look at the color, warmth, and comfort of the skin. Gradual improvement is reassuring; worsening warrants a call.
Often several weeks
The skin takes time to heal, and visible improvement usually comes before it has actually healed. Complete the prescribed number of baths even if the skin already looks better, and do not stop on your own: stopping too early is a common cause of relapse. We will confirm with you when and how to space the baths out.
When to call us
After a bath, compare the skin day by day. Call us promptly if you notice it getting worse.
- More discharge, redness, swelling, or heat than before the bath.
- Pain that is increasing.
- An affected area that is spreading.
- A pet that is dull and off its food.
- An unusual reaction: sudden intense itching, hives, or redness that worsens instead of fading.
Dial 514-223-1197. Outside opening hours, see our emergency options.
Your questions, our answers
What owners ask us most about medicated baths.
Why not use a hair dryer after a medicated bath?
Can I use a human medicated shampoo on my pet?
My vet advises 2 baths a week, but I was told not to wash a dog more than once a month. What should I do?
Can I buy a medicated shampoo at a pet store?
Can a groomer apply this shampoo?
Related guides
The secret: contact time and rinsing
Protected eyes, lukewarm water, the shampoo left on for the prescribed time, then a long, careful rinse and a towel dry: that is what makes a medicated bath work. Follow the prescribed schedule, watch the skin day by day, and call us at the slightest doubt.
Skin that is not improving?
Redness, itching, a spreading sore, or a bath that is poorly tolerated? Our team can re-examine your pet's skin and adjust the treatment. Book an appointment.